Seersucker

by cochrancj

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Cuisine inspired by the ‘New South’ in Carroll Gardens. Most produce is sourced at the Carroll Gardens Greenmarket, and the protein is local where possible. As for ‘new south’, I could see this place doing well in Raleigh, which is my barometer for such things.

What We Had

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An amuse of raw local vegetables with a little puddle of local yogurt – beautiful, and a little tasty.

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Biscuits with maple butter, apple butter and a preserve. I’ve gotta make maple butter. That was awesome. The biscuits were good, if lacking a kiss of salt – nice and tender & flaky – but they didn’t make us want to eat a bucketful. I blame Yardbird in Miami. Maybe in time, as the memory of Yardbird’s biscuits fades, we will love these more.

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I had the walleye – I can’t remember what all was in the dish (and it has since been replaced by NC trout), but it was a solid dish, and the fish skin was amazing. Good flavor, nice buttery fish, good accompaniments (grits and a jus??)

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My DH had the Confit of Hudson Valley Berkshire Pork Belly with Cayuga white beans, Rancho Gordo hominy, red eye gravy and cracklins. A tasty dish – the beans with the gravy were the best part. The belly was great, but belly is one of those ingredients better enjoyed in 3-4 bite quantities. This was more like 6, so it wore on my DH. (I know, right? What a complaint – we should all be so lucky) He definitely enjoyed the dish, though.

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We split the Consider Bardwell Farms Skillet Mac & Cheese – This was more my style of Mac than my DH’s. A tangle of cheeses, including something in the bleu family, kept me going back for more long after I was full.

The meal rounded out with a check paying praline – I could eat a whole box happily, and am still sad I don’t have at least the memory of a whole box beside me.

Décor

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Minimalist farmhouse. Very clean lines with nice charcoals, whites and woods.

Service

Very friendly, personable service with spot-on drink suggestions (no easy feat for one so picky). The food took awhile, but not horribly long, and our server voluntarily comped the biscuits.

Overall Impressions

I wanted a little salt with everything. There was a dish of table salt, but I hate using it. Unless I am knowingly dining at an old people mecca, I would rather the chef season the food properly than have to cover it in a layer of afterthought salt.

Rating

4 out of 5. The food was good and certainly worth another visit, but it didn’t knock our socks off. I’d say make the trip if you’re in the area.

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